The revolutionary zigzag of Missoni’s new dimension
Bravery is now a rarity in the contemporary ready-to-wear scene. Filippo Grazioli, at the helm of Missoni since 2022, is one of those rare flies who is not afraid to boldly tackle an important heritage and impose a new, overbearing vitality on a historic brand. For the creative director, the spring summer 2025 show represents the maison’s entry into a new dimension. This happens in a literal sense, because the fundamental characteristic of this collection is precisely three-dimensionality. Missoni’s trademark zigzag patterns expand massively, to the point of building real sculptures that envelop the body, multiplying like millefeuille, marking the outline of trousers and tops, transforming into fringes and knotting to create tops with an almost tribal inspiration. Volumes are pushed to the extreme in the vaporous knitted fur styles, outerwear of different lengths that claim their three-dimensional space, in contrast with the tight silhouettes of dresses and leggings. The chromatic choice is essential, reduced to primary colours, red, blue, yellow and then black and white, in order to give greater prominence to the new shapes. A cosmopolitan audience enthusiastically welcomed the novelties, including Francesca Michielin, Normani, Khalid, Giulia Salemi and Paola Turani.
Text: Giuliano Deidda
Photos: Alessio Ammannati
