A Revolutionary Zigzag Marks Missoni’s New Chapter
Boldness is quite scarce in the contemporary ready-to-wear scene. Filippo Grazioli is one of those few designers who aren’t afraid of tackling an imposing heritage to impose a new and overpowering vitality on a legendary brand. For the creative director, at the helm of Missoni since 2022, the Spring-Summer 2025 show represents a new chapter in the Maison’s history. This happens in a literal sense because the fundamental characteristic of this collection is precisely three-dimensionality. Missoni’s trademark zigzag patterns expand massively, to the point of building real sculptures that envelop the body, multiplying like millefeuille, marking the outline of trousers and tops, transforming into fringes and knotting to create tops with an almost tribal inspiration. Volumes are pushed to the extreme in the vaporous knitted fur styles, outerwear of different lengths that claim their three-dimensional space, in contrast with the tight silhouettes of dresses and leggings. The chromatic choice is essential, reduced to primary colours, red, blue, yellow and then black and white, to give greater prominence to the new shapes. A cosmopolitan audience enthusiastically welcomed the novelties, including Francesca Michielin, Normani, Khalid, Giulia Salemi and Paola Turani.
Text: Giuliano Deidda
Photos: Alessio Ammannati
