When Didier Grumbach left the presidency of the French Sewing Federation, he made fashion half an orphan. In sixteen years spent working for the development of the haute-couture and ready-to-wear market in France, the great man in his Sunday best can boast of having made Paris, its know-how and its craftsmen shine throughout the world, strengthening its position as the undisputed (and international) capital of luxury sape, convincing more and more houses to join the time of shows, the city of light. Another feat of arms: the ever more remarkable rise of young hopes in the sector, through the promotion of French schools (from the IFM to the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture) but also the increase in weight of associations at the origin of the “support” prizes for creation, such as the Andam or the Festival de Hyères. In the genesis of each of them, Mr Grumbach is an honorary figure. Whether he denies it or not, in everyone’s eyes, THE Grumbach resounds like half a god.
Then last night, at half words, the high authorities of Parisian fashion paid homage to this venerated figure, who at 77 years old is retiring to give way to Ralph Toledano, man of industry with frank and assumed ambitions, incidentally President of the fashion branch of the Catalan luxury giant PUIG. A great mass like the Fédé never does, in the golden salons of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothshild and its gardens. No wonder, in this context, that all were present at the invitation of this evening closing the shows of the season. Perhaps it was also a little because of the buffet, downright Dionysian, or simply for the pleasure of a last worldly wedding, emboldened by all the satisfaction of the accomplished duty. Thank you, Mr Grumbach! B.B.