The journey itself is an ordeal. Nearly four hours of driving separate the destination from the Tel Aviv airport. Designed by Plesner Architects, the building is a masterpiece of integration, drawing on its immediate surroundings for most of the materials needed for its construction. Located in the heart of the desert, the hotel’s view calls up constant meditation, which is reinforced by a beautifully designed spa. Then comes the kitchen. David Biton, who sharpened his skills at the fabulous Noma in Copenhagen, blurs the lines by bringing Mediterranean and Nordic influences to his plate. Never before have we been so starving for a desert.