Robert Geller
We design for Downton New York creatives, entrepreneurs, musicians, and artists
«At Rag & Bone we think of ourselves as a Downtown New York brand, that is where we were born and where we live, that is where we draw our inspiration from»
As the New York-based label Rag & Bone lands in Pitti Uomo for the second season to present its fall-winter 2025 collection, we meet its head menswear designer, Robert Geller, just before the cocktail party held by the brand on the first day of the trade show. The collection is presented ahead of a large expansion plan across Europe and the United Kingdom, with new stores opening in major cities, starting with Düsseldorf and Amsterdam. The collection, entitled This Must Be the Place, is inspired by the New Wave music movement and the vibrant energy it created in Downtown NYC in the early 1980s. The designer tells us about the vision behind this quintessential New York wardrobe, with its strong mix of tailoring, refined outerwear, and beautiful knits, all grounded by denim.
Three words that define Rag & Bone.
Robert Geller :
«Downtown, New York, cool.»
Your background includes both working for different brands and having your own label. How different are your previous experiences from your present role?
Robert Geller :
«Yes, I started at Marc Jacobs and shortly after that, I founded my own brand. The main difference when you work for your label is that you are completely free to build it under your own aesthetics and taste. While developing the brand, I did some collaborations with brands like Levi’s, Lululemon and Adidas. In these kinds of projects, you still bring your vision into another brand, but it is usually a short-lived project, lasting one or two seasons. Here, in Rag & Bone, the aesthetic is already very strong, which can stay side by side with my own very well. This venture is more about using my experience and all the things I have learned over the years to strengthen the identity of the brand, to highlight the key aspects that made Rag & Bone so successful.»
This is the second season Rag & Bone presents a menswear collection at Pitti Uomo. What makes this exhibition so special?
Robert Geller :
«If you want to join a menswear trade show in Europe, Pitti is the place to be. It is simply a nice environment to introduce our New York aesthetics. From our perspective, Pitti is the most exciting in terms of being able to display your collection. Of course, we also have our showroom in other major cities like Paris, but I like the whole experience of finding a space, and creating a whole environment, to show a 360° vision of the brand. This is the best place to do it. And, on top of it, I like all the social activities and events surrounding the exhibition, especially in the summer edition.»
The fall-winter 2025 collection is dedicated to the New Wave music scene of the early 1980s. What is left of the energy of those years in today’s New York?
Robert Geller :
«At Rag & Bone, we think of ourselves as a Downtown New York brand. It is where we were born and where we live, the place we draw inspiration from. We design for Downton New York creatives, whether they are entrepreneurs, musicians or artists.
There is still a creative energy, in a different way than it was back then. I think it was much more raw at the time, not as developed as it is now.»
What are the highlights of the fall-winter 2025 collection?
Robert Geller :
«There are a couple of things I would like to mention. We have always been a brand specialising in denim. This season, we want to highlight “Infuse”, our new range of innovative denim. The process is the following: You take a raw pair of jeans, wash them down into a multiple-step process to get all sorts of beautiful shades, and then use a double dying technique, which infuses colour on top of the already washed jeans. This way, we obtain this really intense colour, which is something that sets us apart within the denim segment. We have a wide range of blue and indigo tones. As for the fits, on top of our core ones, from 1 to 4, we added the seasonal styles, which include baggy designs, and more relaxed, eighties-inspired silhouettes. We are also offering a bigger lifestyle range, including more tailoring, something that our customers can wear when they go out at night.»
Which are the key markets for Rag & Bone and which are the ones the brand aims at?
Robert Geller :
«Of course, North America is very strong for us, is the place where we have most of our stores. We also have some successful stores in London, UK is quite important for us. We are here in Pitti because the plan is to expand in Europe. We are going to open a store in Amsterdam in spring and then several stores in Germany, starting with Düsseldorf.»
How different is the European market from your point of view?
Robert Geller :
«I think that every country in Europe has their own peculiarities, so there are differences between the German public and the English or the Italian one, in terms of taste. The challenge for us is to work within each market, offering a complete collection that can be appreciated by all for different reasons. The Germans are quite traditional, for example, and our offer is something they are used to but with a slight touch of New York vibe that can be appreciated by that target. The Dutch guys are a little bit more experimental in their wardrobes, like the British ones. Our focus is to give a good mix of different inputs in our collections.»
Who is your typical customer?
Robert Geller :
«He is a professional who has both taste and a certain financial stability, someone willing to invest in the pieces making their wardrobe. He wants good quality, plus a cooler style. He may not be the most fashionable guy, but is certainly well-dressed. The age range is probably between 35 to 50.»
Interview: Giuliano Deidda
Portraits: Francesca Babbi
Exhibition Views: Ludovica Arcero
