Pascal Morand
Meeting the Executive President of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode
“Fashion Week, CSR, AI, economic models and many other topics, the FHCM is never short of subjects to tackle!”
Six feet tall, his azure gaze soothingly looms over you. With his broad shoulders draped in a perfectly fitting forestry jacket, Pascal Morand welcomes us with a broad smile into the headquarters of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM). Located just a stone’s throw from Place Beauvau, this Parisian flat has homed the institution and its precursor structures since 1937. A holder of a diploma from the HEC (Paris School of Advanced Business Studies) and a deep fascination with the power of religion, he took over the direction of the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) shortly after its creation, from 1987 to 2006, when he was still a neophyte in the world of fashion. An economist, mathematician and musician, Pascal Morand was also a professor at ESCP Business School, which he headed for a while. The list goes on. Working also as a writer and an adviser to various governments, he has been active in a myriad of institutions varying in size and field. Since 2016, he has been the Executive President of the prestigious Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM).
How did your venture into Fashion begin?
PASCAL MORAND :
It was a bit by chance. Back in 1986, the IFM had just been founded by the late Pierre Bergé. The institution was in its very early stages. When I was approached, I knew the former director had only lasted a year. Pierre Bergé was a great visionary. He knew the future of fashion depended on establishing a solid academic base. I didn’t know anything about the industry. At the time, I was pursuing an academic career as a research professor and programme director. More specifically, I devised the Specialised Masters at the ESCP Business School and I played synthesiser in the rock band “King Lear”, which later became “Fraude Fiscale”. He asked me if I liked opera. I said I did, but that I preferred rock and new wave. We had played a few concerts and released a track that made a bit of a splash, and he liked that. Then of course, as the sharp businessman that he was, he knew my position as an economist was an interesting asset because it allowed me to have a double role, both mischievous and serious.
We can tell that teaching is something dear to you. What is the role of the IFM?
PASCAL MORAND :
The growth of the fashion groups and brands participating in Paris Fashion Week called for the creation of a competitive world-class school, where talented creatives could be trained to further contribute to this development. The 2019 merger between the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) and the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (CSPCP) has brought together different academic profiles, gathering managers, designers and craftsmen under the same roof. A leading fashion designing college like the IFM is essential to France’s global leadership.
What about the FHCM?
PASCAL MORAND :
The FHCM has two core roles: one as an events organiser and another as a professional organisation. It is in charge of organising Paris Fashion Week and Haute Couture Week, which are framed by their respective Official Calendars. The FHCM ensures that these events run smoothly, thanks to its official partnerships with companies such as L’Oréal Paris and DEFI (Comité de Développement et de Promotion de l’Habillement). The fashion brands that take part in these events are either members of the FHCM or selected by the Official Calendars committees, which meet each season.
As a professional organization, the FHCM is there to represent its members and defend their interests before public authorities and European structures. We have five commissions: Legal Affairs, Social, Training & Education, Innovation & Sustainability, and the Couture Parisienne Professional Branch. Together, they provide a constant information flow to our members. They function as a platform for exchanges between experts from different Maisons, ensuring that information is shared so that issues can be dealt with collectively. We also have an active policy in support of emerging brands. The Federation is chaired by Bruno Pavlovsky and supervised by its Executive Committee. It has 100 members, a third of whom are brands based outside France.
What challenges is the sector currently facing?
PASCAL MORAND :
One of them has been a subject of discussion for decades: social and environmental responsibility. Fashion labels have already started taking measures on the issue, and should abide by French and European laws, a process that we accompany them with. We must also work to ensure that future regulations do not represent any additional obstacles for small and medium-sized companies.
Then there are the challenges linked to the digital revolution, which nowadays mainly implies the arrival of artificial intelligence. If counterfeiting was the big battle for creators until now, tomorrow’s combat is set to be against the creative proposals generated by artificial intelligence.
We are at the peak of Paris Couture Week, are you getting any sleep?
PASCAL MORAND :
It’s been a very stimulating week for me and our 25-strong team. The programme has been outstanding, offering a wide range of creative diversity.
Interview by Nicolas Salomon
Photos: Jean Picon
