Carlo Capasa

Carlo Capasa: 

Being both President and CEO, in addition to the institutional activities, I am also in charge of the operational side. When I arrived, CNMI was only in charge of the Fashion Week. There has been a big change brought about by the same players in the business. It seems like it has finally been made clear that the system needs to rely on a strong network to deal with the different institutions. I am an entrepreneur, so I relate as an equal with our members. Our board is made up of a group of entrepreneurs and CEOs, like Patrizio Bertelli, Gildo Zegna and Remo Ruffini. They all have enthusiastically welcomed the invitation for the change. Even those who aren’t part of the board by choice, such as Brunello Cucinelli, Giorgio Armani and Diego Della Valle, are still involved so we can advance common demands and advocate for Italian fashion on an international scale.

Carlo Capasa:

We had some fundamental issues to deal with. Starting with sustainability, then attention to new designers, education, digitalization, storytelling and institutional relations. I set up eight working tables on sustainability, creating protocols and guidelines that involved the entire supply chain. We wanted to create a system right away, which is why I am also Vice-President of Altagamma (the association of Italian luxury brands, Ed.) with responsibility for fashion. We wanted to connect with other associations and entities, gradually trying to share requests with them. The great work done on sustainability was the result of the collaboration with different external actors, such as Quantis for environmental consultancy and Fair Wage Network for social sustainability. We started a training project with the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees, UNHCR, involving a group of refugees, subsequently placing them in 30 companies in the industry.

Carlo Capasa: 

In these 10 years, we have cooperated with all the Italian governments that have come and gone and, of course, with the European Parliament. Two years ago, we established the European Fashion Alliance. I am a firm believer in creating a system, so I reached out to the associations of other European countries so we could work together. EFA now represents 21 associated countries. Fashion is a creative industry, it cannot be evaluated using the same parameters as different types of business. Then it is fundamental to defend small businesses, respect creative processes and cleverly aim for sustainability. Italy is the first high-level producer in the world. Without us, fashion as we know it would not exist. It is an industry that creates dreams. When marketing dictates the rules, we lose the main piece. This is why we have signed a memorandum of understanding with Confartigianato, for example. Italy is divided into fashion districts, in which small and large businesses are connected. This is the secret of our supply chain value, which guarantees creativity, efficiency, precision and sustainability.

Carlo Capasa:

This was caused by several factors. On the one hand, the adverse economic situation, on the other, there have been specific contingent circumstances involving some brands. Some suffered from the resignations of their creative directors, others had anniversaries whose celebration required an adequate stage. I believe that within a couple of seasons, we will return to a full calendar. Men’s fashion is very important to us, and it is the segment least affected by the crisis. The narrative is completely different from the one about Women’s fashion. In a co-ed fashion show, men’s offerings can hardly be the highlights. Paradoxically, young labels have benefited from these voids, gaining spaces of visibility. I hope that emerging brands keep equally receiving attention once we return to normal numbers.

Carlo Capasa: 

This is also possible thanks to the collaboration of big brands, which help us support young talents, for instance, by providing them with beautiful locations. The Camera Moda Fashion Trust, whose 2025 applications are now open, sees the participation of 60 Italian female professionals to provide mentoring and tutoring to young talents, who will also benefit from 50,000 euros of financial support. I would also like to mention the Fashion Hub, a meeting place and breeding ground for innovative projects, open to the public and the city of Milan during the days of Fashion Week. The project, dedicated to young people and international talents, is supported by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and by the ICE Agency.

Carlo Capasa:

We must find, possibly thanks to the younger generation, the energy to keep fashion fashionable. If it becomes just marketing, it is destined to disappear. If we erase passion, involvement and point of view, it no longer makes sense. Fashion must reveal new worlds. When you enter the hall before a fashion show begins, you already perceive something about the designer and the collection that will take the stage. We have experienced during the pandemic what it means to lose the experience. Fashion feeds on all five senses, but especially the sixth, which is emotion.