Yohji Yamamoto, Still Standing in The Ring
Deconstructed and crafted in every conceivable shade of black, Yohji Yamamoto’s designs embody, above all, an unflinching critique of contemporary society. Expressed through elegant garments executed with impeccable artistry, his urge to subvert convention feels more palpable than ever this season. Boxing pads were placed at the centre of the catwalk, inviting models to step into the ring. Were they a symbol of the battles still to be fought within the industry, or a broader metaphor for the political turmoil sweeping the world? Either way, this was hardly the Japanese designer’s first rodeo. The silhouettes followed one another with the solemnity that defines a Yohji Yamamoto show. Moving slowly, the models strode down the runway with stoic resolve, almost flirting with these combat-like objects. As if to counterbalance the symbolic brutality of the ring, the collection felt almost colourful by Yohji Yamamoto’s standards. Cream, off-white and nude ensembles lit up the catwalk, while military motifs brought together greens, browns and blues, not forgetting a few touches of red set against the signature black palette.
Once again, Yohji Yamamoto confirms his enduring mastery and makes his runway one of the standouts of Paris Fashion Week. In the front row, we spotted Sofiane Pamart, Hugo Marchand, Sang Heon Lee, JoeyStarr, Mickalene Thomas and Daniel Caesar, to name but a few.
Text: Cristina López Caballer
Photo: Jean Picon
