The Art of Upcycling Triumphs on Moschino’s Runway
Adrian Appiolaza rewrites the relationship between fashion and circular economy using Moschino’s lexicon. Niente (nothing in Italian, editor’s note), the title of the spring summer 2026 show, borrows its name from a T-shirt from the house’ spring summer 1992 collection — brought back on the runway before being auctioned on eBay as part of the eBay Endless Runway project, with proceeds supporting the Camera Moda Fashion Trust. The designer draws inspiration from Arte Povera, the radical Italian movement of the late Sixties, whose codes resonate with Franco Moschino’s irreverent vision. The collection rests on the pillars of reuse, recycling and reimagination. True to his method, Appiolaza begins with a respectful reinterpretation of the past to spark something new. Existing garments are treated as raw material: crumpled, patched, and recombined until they emerge in unexpected forms. This process extends to humble, everyday materials rarely associated with clothing: burlap, rope, and even wood. For instance, potato sacks are reborn as an evening skirt and top. Naturally, Moschino’s heritage codes also join the game of upcycling — from the iconic Smiley and trompe-l’œil tricks to the newspaper prints of the early Nineties. The show closes with a maxi T-shirt emblazoned with a child’s face declaring Stop! — worn by Appiolaza himself. A message of peace, perhaps? In the audience attending the show were Anna Pepe, Mouni Roy, Vic Montanari, Simone, Levante, Anna dello Russo ed Elisa Maino.
Text: Giuliano Deidda
Photos: Ludovica Arcero and Francesca Zama
