Setchu's Three-Dimensional Shades Make Debut at Pitti Uomo

For Setchu’s runway debut as Guest Designer of Pitti Immagine Uomo, founder and creative director Satoshi Kuwata chose the Central National Library of Florence as the backdrop, giving life to a symbolic encounter between contemporaneity and history. The brand’s name itself indicates the meeting point and balance between Eastern and Western culture, which is a trademark of the designer, awarded with both the CNMI Fashion Trust Grant and the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designer in 2023. This new collection, like the previous ones, starts from a piece of origami paper and is subsequently developed through the dialogue between East and West. This season, the starting point is a square, which develops into a three-dimensional piece through an interplay of folded layers. The garments’ structure is constructed following this logic, and so safari jackets and coats are shortened, shirts and blazers extend into square panels, and tails of tailcoats are tucked inside. Everything is fluid and interchangeable, starting from gender divisions. The highlights of a show that unfolds as the day progresses, from morning to afternoon, are three bespoke pieces made by Davies & Sons, the oldest Saville Raw tailoring still in business, a morning suit, a classic blue double-breasted blazer with gold buttons and a tailcoat, all fitted with Setchu’s trademark origami pleats. The refined parterre included among others Declan Chan, Yu Masui, Takuro Ogasawara, Nick Wooster and Angelo Flaccavento.

Photos: Ludovica Arcero
Text: Giuliano Deidda