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14.06.2024 Via Ventura, Milan #fashion

Moschino’s World Vision Opens Milan Menswear Fashion Week

The second Moschino catwalk with Adrian Appiolaza as creative director is a successful contemporary mashup, blending everything that the founder of the brand represented in the Eighties and Nineties. The concept of the show is an inclusive and cosmopolitan overview of very different types of characters, explorers of the world who cross paths in a surreal Lost and Found, the title of the collection, represented on the platform by enormous stacks of suitcases of various origins, from trunks to polycarbonate trolleys. Surrealist references and archive pieces from the Maison alternate on the catwalk, in a continuous exchange between past and future that generates a short circuit that Franco Moschino would have probably appreciated. Almost nothing of the brand’s archetypes is missing, starting from prints, daisies, soccer balls, sauce stains, fried eggs, trompe-l’oeil and smiley faces. All of these elements are remixed according to contemporary codes, but with extreme delicacy and respect in these two collections shown together, the men’s Spring Summer 2025 and the women’s Resort 2025. The Survival Jacket deserves a separate mention, revived in spring summer 1992, is an avant-garde combination of formal and workwear, extremely in tune with contemporaneity.

Text: Giuliano Deidda

Photos: Ludovica Arcero

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