Leo Dell’Orco’s Fluid Walk at Giorgio Armani
In a season shaped by an industry-wide return to heritage and identity, Giorgio Armani once again closes Milan Fashion Week Men’s, in keeping with tradition. This time, however, it marks the first solo outing of Leo Dell’Orco, the late designer’s key collaborator for the past forty years. As head of the group’s menswear lines, Dell’Orco approached his debut with the complex task of remaining faithful without becoming static, introducing small, natural shifts without betraying the brand’s formidable legacy. The key word is Cangiante – an Italian term suggesting an iridescent, subtly shifting quality – and serves as the title of the collection. Colour takes centre stage, emerging with Armani’s customary restraint but with renewed decisiveness: olive green, amethyst and lapis blue light up velvets, crêpes, chenilles and iridescent silks, set in contrast against brushed cashmeres, beaten wools and matte leathers. The silhouettes remain fluid, perhaps even more relaxed than usual. Low-buttoned jackets, broad-shouldered blousons, enveloping coats and wide trousers with pronounced pleats define the look. The subtle shifts with the past come through a more tactile knitwear offering – including a jacquard cardigan developed in collaboration with Alanui – a looser, less buttoned-up styling, and a noticeably quicker runway pace. Unsurprisingly, such an important handover drew a front row to match, from current breakout star Hudson Williams of cult series Heated Rivalry to Ricky Martin and Italian actor Luca Marinelli.
Text: Giuliano Deidda
Photos: Ludovica Arcero
Fashion Show Photos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani
