Tolu Coker Kicks Off London Fashion Week with ‘Survivor’s Remorse’
On February 20th, 2018, Queen Elizabeth II took the fashion world by surprise when she sat beside Anna Wintour in the front row of Richard Quinn’s show. Eight years later, almost to the day, her son and successor, King Charles, made his own appearance at London Fashion Week. Seated between Laura Weir, president of the British Fashion Council, and Stella McCartney, the monarch attended the presentation of Tolu Coker’s Autumn/Winter 2026 collection. Titled Survivor’s Remorse, the collection brought together the influences that have shaped the British-Nigerian designer: her childhood on West London’s Mozart Estate and her professional journey within the fashion industry.
Born into a working-class family and now operating in the luxury sector, Coker draws on her personal experience to explore themes of socio-economic mobility. Rather than distancing herself from the environment that shaped her early years, the designer proudly embraces her roots, which continue to inform her work. Staged at 180 Strand, the venue hosting designers from the NewGen programme dedicated to emerging British talent, the show unfolded amid family portraits painted by Neequaye Dreph Dsane. The collection comprised 28 looks, including a collaboration with Topshop. Bold, colourful tartans, draped dresses, pleated miniskirts, reimagined school uniforms and hats evoking a contemporary aristocracy were among the standout elements. Described by Coker herself as the “most vulnerable” work of her career, “Survivor’s Remorse” marks a clear creative high point.
To round off the show, British rapper Little Simz, dressed in a long electric-blue coat, rose from her seat mid-performance to perform one of her songs, transforming the finale into an event in itself, reminiscent of Allan Kaprow’s happenings. In the front row, we spotted Laura Weir, Stella McCartney, Harris Reid, Seon Mcgirr, Sandra Choi, and many others.
Photos: Charlie Wheeler
