Jaden Smith and Marissa Berenson at Thom Browne’s spectacular show
Welcome to the world of Thom Browne. After two years of absence, the American designer is back in Paris. Direction Place Concorde: this time, Browne left his favorite show space – les Beaux Arts de Paris – to show at the most select private club in Europe, L’Automobile Club de France. Jaden Smith, Pelayo Diaz and Chloé Wise, aficionados of the brand, were welcomed on the top floor of the private hotel. With a view over all of Paris, the show began with a parade of Thom Browne boys in gray suits with the house’s tricolor logo. And then surprise! The music cut, the show stopped, – and the exceptional guests Marisa Berenson, Farida Khelfa, Sasha Pivovarova, Dree Hemingway and Debra Shaw, all dressed in tweed of the label (hello, Mademoiselle Chanel!), disembarked late, storming the free seats. As back in the old couture days, models walked slowly in front of them, each holding a sign card with a number. Very classic, we would say! But not quite: Thom Browne likes to challenge the notion of masculinity, and his tweed boys wear anchors on the forehead, micro-skirts, low-rise pants (poke to Miu Miu Spring-Summer 22, that all the boys in town were jealous of). During a second passage on the catwalk, the models dropped their jackets to reveal male bikinis and jock straps, a hidden styling detail that changes everything. But the biggest highlight of the night was when Florian Desbiendras walked the runway, masterfully closing the show dressed in the blue tweed cowboy ensemble … Proving once again that sexy couture for men is a new thing. Bravo, Thom Browne!
Photos: Ayka Lux et Oleh Filatov