21.06.2025 Armani Teatro, Milan #fashion

Emporio Armani Starts From The Origins

Armani Teatro, Milan

For the first time in 50 years, Giorgio Armani didn’t take to the catwalk to greet the public at the end of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 show. He was replaced by an emotional Leo Dell’Orco, head of style for the men’s lines. Naturally, the fashion designer followed all the stages of the show remotely, since he was recovering at his home. It couldn’t have been otherwise, considering that the collection is titled Origins, and was conceived as an introspective journey through the brand’s identity. The show opened unexpectedly with a symbolic race in the desert wind, faced by a few dozen models lined up in clothes from the EA7 sports line, of utility and military inspiration. This unexpected introduction was followed by a contemporary update of some founding codes of the brand’s aesthetics, starting from Armani’s sincere interest in different cultures. Specifically, various suggestions from African cultures are translated by the designer into an eclectic wardrobe. Patterns and artisanal textures are thus declined on soft jackets worn on bare skin, wide trousers and long tunics. The materials themselves are a direct link to the origins of the brand, crepe and linen with a rough or impalpable touch, cold-dyed for a lived-in effect. Among the audience applauding were spotted Marcell Jacobs, André Lamoglia, Michael Cooper Jr., Alberto Rossi, Hael Husaini and Chen Xingxu.

Text: Giuliano Deidda
Photos: Ludovica Arcero

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