Dhruv Kapoor’s Vision: Between Memory and Prophecy
Dhruv Kapoor’s runway is covered in sand, on which the models of the Co-ed fashion show leave their footprints, materialising the concept of the “Foundations&Futures” collection. An ancestral music echoes, carrying the designer’s prophecy: “We build from what was broken.” Thus, for Spring/Summer 2026, Dhruv Kapoor aims for a fashion that heals and unites, gathering symbols from the past and making them fluid, light, and futuristic. He shows this intention in the seamless blending of men’s and women’s silhouettes: while male models wear buttoned tops and midi skirts, female mannequins show off unstructured jackets and trouser suits. And then everything is mixed up again, as fabrics and patterns communicate with each other. Floral embroidery is the common thread between tradition and the present, masculine and feminine, India and Milan, appearing as bright twigs or delicate white explosions on bright fabrics. An oversized half-sleeved jacket with floral embroidery is transformed into a pencil skirt, a vest with a straight collar and bright black crescents becomes a barrel-shaped sweater with puff sleeves. Accessories also change shape, such as the Case bags, carried by hand or tied at the waist, or the ultra-thin belts worn at the hips or around the neck. Feet are bare or adorned with a pair of ballet flats with intertwined buckles, or maximalist ones with studs. As they walk by, the sand whispers the memory of those who have just stirred it, while a breath of wind already tells of what is to come.
In the front row sat Anna Dello Russo, Saweetie, Paul Forman and Alex Wyse, together with the Triplets, Veronika Yoko, Brian Boy, Tamara Kalinic and Giovanni Zattera: a diverse parterre that, like a mirror, reflected the many shades of the future imagined on the runway.
Text: Anna Zucca
Photos: Alessio Ammannati
