N21 Towards a Revolution in Women’s Wardrobes
With its Fall/Winter 2023-24 collection, N21 questions the cultural habits that define women’s lives and the way they dress in contemporary times. Designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua finds inspiration in the 60s, a time when frustration and questioning led to the discovery of modern sensuality and eroticism. “When I started working, I had two women in mind, two female figures from the cinema of the 60s who seemed so close, both in personality and mindset, to our modern times: Monica Vitti and Jeanne Moreau in the films “La Notte” and “Deserto Rosso” by Michelangelo Antonioni”.
This season, Dell’Acqua addresses the 60s, the years of Italian history when the clichés of the Italian province and middle class collapsed as they were countered by the reality of the surrounding world, which was constantly changing. In doing so, he seeks to identify the clichés of the female wardrobe, to later twist them, break them, or at least de-dramatize them. The designer plays with shapes and volumes, he puts clothes at the service of a freer body language, thus making them gain sophistication and power.
Dell’Acqua reinterprets garments in order to create new narratives, and clothes that were reminiscent of the frustrations of women in the 60s are now twisted to express N21’s unique take on femininity. The suit is now constructed with a masculine fabric and a minimal cut, the faux-fur cardigan matches the striped men’s shirt and is worn atop a lacquered satin dress. Cardigans close at the back and are fastened with brooches. Chiffon dresses are overlaid with invisible tulle petticoats, while slip-dresses are fully embroidered. Shearlings are spotted, gold fabric skirts are worn with rough-looking, double-faced sweaters, and twin sets are completely transparent. And as the main colour of the collection is black – with a few dashes of green and pink – shoes have invisible heels.
The show ended in silence. Then with applause and bravos from guests Anna Dello Russo, Simone Rutigliano, Rosa Perrotta, Caroline Issa and Jenny Walton.
Text: Flavio Marcelli
Photos: Vincenzo Migliore
