26.09.2025 Via Vivaio, Milan #fashion

Blumarine’s Emblematic Butterflies Embrace the Darkness

Via Vivaio, Milan

David Koma’s dark and fairy-tale fantasies emerge in the persistent rain of Milan: Blumarine’s Spring/Summer 2026 woman exudes Gothic charm, embodied by the myriad butterflies, beetles, and dragonflies that embellish the collection’s prints, embroidery, and charms. Crosses also play a leading role, as heavy necklaces are layered around the neck and transformed into finishes between the lenses of sunglasses. Blumarine’s new collection exaggerates the theme of an enchanted castle, populated by spirits wearing asymmetrical skirts with ruffled trains and metallic tops with the rigid shape of a dragonfly with outstretched wings. The animal world is in every tiny detail, from the macramé of a dress reminiscent of a spider’s web to the brooches on a fitted cardigan that look like insects in a display case. One of the most interesting expressions of the concept is the animal print used to decorate soft pink ruffled dresses, as well as a structured top with a sash that once again recalls a butterfly in its nuances and structure. Black and sheer fabrics welcome flashes of light shades, acid green and fiery red, before focusing on the final appearance. Maria Carla Boscono walks the runway for Blumarine wearing a white dress with ruffles, embroidery, and laces on sleeves and skirt, with an embellished cut-out neckline embellished with cross-shaped jewellery. An otherworldly appearance that closes the most esoteric collection of the season. Among others in the front row there were: Sita Abellan, Francesca Mesiano, Miss Keta, Kyshan Wilson and Romy Nassar.

Text: Anna Zucca
Photos: Francesca Riva

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