The insolent woman of Ermanno Scervino
The research for Ermanno Scervino’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection starts from the exploration of archival 1960s and 1970s garments to bring them into the present and the future: into their brat era. Yes, because the woman who is sketched by Scervino’s clothes is sassy, spoiled, determined, so that a reference to Charli XCX comes easy. On the runway, the pillars of style are rethought in terms of elegant ostentation: lace remains sensual but is combined with denim, giving grit to the texture. The boldness is also in the combination of straight lines and impalpable fabrics: miniskirts and maxi trench coats, sheer dresses and bomber jackets.
The palette focuses on everything that is not gray, chosing nuances that vary from mint green to denim blue, via yellow and pink, with a hint of black. The difference is also made by the few, but well thought out, accessories, such as the maxi bag adorned with flowers and leaves, a symbol of rebirth. For wich we need to talk about sandals that, like climbing branches, grow on the calves of the models, sometimes welcoming leaf shapes, others shining details. But what gives the most of the insolent and chic vibe is the lingerie: worn strictly exposed and studded with sequins, or in the form of denim bralettes with pointed cups. This is really brat. On the front row were, among others: Violante Placido, Mary Leest and Martina Colombari.
Text: Anna Zucca
Photos: Vincenzo Migliore
