Francesca Murri’s delicate dream pop vision revives Fiorucci
There is no point in denying it, there was great anticipation for the catwalk debut of the new Fiorucci course. We are talking about a brand which is one of Milan’s symbols, just like the Duomo and the Sforza Castle. Its founder was the only Italian insider of the magic circle that revolved around Andy Warhol in the Seventies and Eighties, which brought a cosmopolitan allure to Italian fashion. Francesca Murri managed to recreate some of the sensations from those years on the catwalk, naturally in updated and adapted to a prêt-à-porter collection of the 2020s. The golden years of Fiorucci’s past peeked out in the choice of elongated silhouettes of slip dresses (both for her and for him), tunics, oversized trench and dust coats. Even the choice of some materials was conspicuously vintage, in particular Tyvek, a synthetic fabric that resembled paper, which in the mid-seventies was very popular on jackets and overalls, made an appearance on a T-shirt and skirt set. Denim plays a leading role, of course, as Murri uses it to experiment with hybrid or innovative designs, such as the trench coat open at the back, or the dungaree dress. Among the fans of the brand who applauded the show were Ariete, Stella Bossi, Santangelica, Gianmaria and many others.
Text: Giuliano Deidda
Photos: Vincenzo Migliore
