The Feminist Middle Ages By Antonio Marras
From the second Italian actor Filippo Timi’s voice broke the silence from the dark stage calling “Eleonora, Eleonora”, it became clear to those familiar with Antonio Marras’ vision that the parade was dedicated to Eleonora D’Arborea, regent of the Judicate of Arborea from 1383 to 1403. The choice of the historic heroine of the Sardinian people, played on the catwalk by actress Anna Della Rosa, as the key to decoding the show, is more coherent than ever. As a matter of fact the collection offers a reworking of all the codes dear to the designer, enhanced by the contrast of such a medieval atmosphere. In a swirling patchwork, colours, shapes and fabrics alternate on the catwalk and find a paradoxical balance thanks to this game of contrasts. Damasks, brocades, embroidery and floral prints clash with tartan or checkered wool fabrics, whose heavy weights collide with impalpable printed chiffon, lace and devoré fabrics. The references to the Middle Ages of some silhouettes are deconstructed and then recomposed in a contemporary key, with subtle references to the subcultures of a more recent past. Among the loyal Marras audience applauding the show there are names like Giotto Calendoli, Ginevra Mavilla, Michele Bravi, Korlan Madi, Andrea Faccio and many others.
Text: Giuliano Deidda
Photos: Vincenzo Migliore
