Reconstruction and Timelessness: Chitose Abe’s Bold Gamble at Sacai
Timelessness has never been more relevant than in Sacai’s new autumn-winter 2023 collection, unveiled last Monday in one of Renaut’s former car parks. Drawing mainly on themes of the past, present and future, Chitose Abe has renewed her classics, especially the leather pieces. The Chinese designer has fashioned a futuristic collection, paradoxically very much anchored in our contemporary times, and far, it seems, from the ephemeral trends that usually define fashion. Slender silhouettes are mixed with large jackets, creating Sacai’s signature osmosis between chic and casual.
Abe also plays with the codes of the masculine-feminine by creating more daring looks combining shirts with yokes and dresses in powdery tones with lots of volume and transparency. These pieces break the straight and sober, almost severe cuts of the suit jackets by bringing freshness and extravagance. A parade of hybrid pieces and silhouettes, which, while remaining faithful to the DNA of the House, seem to embrace the challenges of our contemporary worlds. Work wear and evening wear; the separation is increasingly thin at SACAI.
Text: Emma Grossi
Photos: Ayka Lux
